Monday, September 15, 2008

The Numbers: Connecticut to Abaco and Return

I am writing this about 3 months after we returned from our round-trip cruise to the Abacos from Connecticut on our small trawler. It has taken us this long to get around to the data entries for the trip and come up with some real facts and figures. In the meantime, we took the grandsons to Block Island for a week, did a few short Connecticut River day-cruises, and have just returned from a three-week cruise to Casco Bay, Maine and back.
We get a lot of questions from people who are thinking about making the trip down the Intracoastal Waterway to the Florida Keys, the Bahamas, or a similar one. Probably the most frequent is "How long does it take to get to ____?" The answer is, "It depends . . . ." We have the capability of travelling at 12 knots, but not the budget. So we spend most of the time going 7 knots. Do you mean, "How many days of actual travel?" We left Connecticut in mid-September and got to West End, Bahamas on New Years Eve, but we had stopped to smell the roses and sip the coffee (and rum!) along the way. We were actually underway for less than half the time on the way to the Bahamas. The rest of the time we were either waiting out some bad weather or just simply doing little or nothing.
How about, "What does it cost?" "It depends. . . ." The sky's the limit if you stop at a marina or resort every night, go out for most or all of your meals, and fly home for all the holidays. If you spend most of your nights at anchor (free) and cook most of your meals aboard, your living expenses might even be less than they are at home.
We left Old Saybrook, Connecticut on September 15, 2007, cruised down the ICW to Miami, went across to the Abacos in the Bahamas, and went as far south as Little Harbour. We returned home on June 7, 2008, having spent 265 days aboard. We were underway (moving) for 108 days, covering a total of 3873 nautical miles (NM) which is 4454 statute miles, averaging 35.8 NM per day. Our shortest trip was only a few miles, taking friends and relatives on "3-hour tours" or less. The longest was 78 NM from North Miami to West End. It took 46 days (underway) to get to West End, Bahamas and only 39 to get home from there once The Admiral began to smell home.
We spent 149 nights at anchor, 6 on free docks, 42 on rental moorings, and 58 at marinas - paying as little as $20/night on a dock with electricity and water. (Some math whiz out there will figure out that I'm missing 10 days somehow, if all the other numbers are right. I have no idea what happened during the missing days, but rum was cheaper in the Bahamas than milk so I don't really care!)
We put 920 hours on the engine, including time underway and time charging the batteries (about 2 hours a day when we stayed at anchor or on a mooring). We used 1808 gallons of diesel fuel which cost a low of $2.70 per gallon (New Jersey at the end of September) to a high of $5.12. The most expensive fuel was in the Abacos, but it was around $4.90 in Connecticut when we got home in June, thanks to George W. and his henchmen. Our total fuel bill was $7,393.03.
We had the bottom cleaned by professional divers twice and hauled the boat for a complete bottom job in the Chesapeake on the way home. The 4-year-old chart plotter went belly up just before we planned to leave for the Bahamas and we replaced it. (We have since had the old one factory rebuilt for $150 so we'll have two - one for the bridge and one for the main station.) Other than that, we had no major "boat expenses" on this trip.
Sesame will be "on the hard" in Connecticut for the winter while we give her a rest, clean her up, do a few boat projects, cuddle up to our new gas stove and think about (maybe) heading south again in 2009-2010.

Friday, June 06, 2008

Home again, Home again.....

It's April 6, 2008 and we're back on our mooring in North Cove, Old Saybrook, CT. What a great voyage!

We took a day off to wander around Hampton, Virginia. Much of it is still a working waterfront.

We went to both the history museum and the Air and Space and Science museum.
From there, we wandered up Chesapeake Bay with a number of other "snowbirders" on their way home.
The first stop was Jackson Creek in Deltaville, VA where the weather turned a bit chilly overnight.
A number of boats "slept in" and waited for it to warm up and the fog to clear before we went on our way.
We anchored overnight in St. Jerome Creek for a visit with good friends and a chance to see their loving restoration of a neat little motorsailor.
After a side trip to Kent Island to spend a couple of nights in a motel (and a couple of blue crab feasts by the Captain) while the boat was hauled for its annual bottom painting, we headed back across the bay to Annapolis and treated newlyweds Pattie and Jerry (see October 13, 2007) to a seafood buffet ashore.By chance, we had arrived the week of graduation at the Naval Academy and were treated to a fireworks show,
And a spectacular show by the Blue Angels directly over our heads.
We then headed a bit south again and took a slip for a week at the Solomons Yachting Center.
While there, we had wonderful visits from the Captain's kids and their delightful families:
Ginger,
David,
Nina,
Zeke,
Julia,
Sam,
Bill,
Liz,
Emily,
and Alison.

We then had a 3-day East Coast Camano Organization Rendezvous with parties,
Seminars and discussions,
A pig roast,
Words of wisdom from the Great Camano Guru, Ray Smith,
A visit to the Calvert Marine Museum, and all kinds of other good stuff.
It's hard work being a guru!
After the Rendezvous, the Admiral put us on a record-setting trip toward home.
We stopped to anchor overnight at Chesapeake City on the C & D Canal before braving frequently-nasty Delaware Bay. There was a new sign next to the slip where we'd gone hard aground a year ago (see June 6, 2007). NOW they tell us!

At The Tap Room the Captain had what may be his last blue crab dinner for a long time.
And we were off early in the morning to transit the canal and had good trip down a relatively benign Bay.
We anchored off the Coast Guard station in Cape May, hoping for good enough weather in the morning to do the next day offshore rather than the twisty New Jersey ICW which also has a few "skinny spots".
The next morning, however, the Skipper decided that the weather forecast suggested that the inside route would be wise and produce less agida from the Admiral. We cruised past part of the large commercial fishing fleet on our way to the ICW.
Many of the houses along the ICW are built OVER the water rather than next to it.
We anchored in Barnegat Bay and left early the next morning on the outside route to New York City.
It was a good trip and, after fueling up, we anchored behind the Statue of Liberty for the night.
The next morning was cold and foggy, so we waited for a little more visibility before heading across New York Harbor and out the busy East River. We waved goodbye to the Admiral's sister who was standing on a balcony of their rental apartment in the skyscraper next to the Empire State Buildiing while she talked to us on the cell phone. And headed back into our "home waters" of Long Island Sound. Once again, NOAA was (thankfully) very wrong and the 20-25 knot gusts were never more than a nice 8 knot breeze.
After a night at a free town mooring in Manhasset Bay, we anchored at Duck Island, near the mouth of the Connecticut River, to avoid running hard aground trying to find our mooring at dead low tide. This morning, we did a little packing and organizing, found our way home to North Cove, unloaded lots of stuff at the Yacht Club dock, and left the boat on the mooring.

Our plans are to stick around home for a few weeks with, maybe, a few overnights and a week's cruise with the grandsons. Sometime in August, we hope to jump back aboard and take the boat toward Maine for a few weeks before we haul her for the winter in Old Saybrook. [Editors Note: I'm taking bets on when the Admiral first complains about the cold winter weather in Connecticut!]

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Once we finish transferring some of the information from the ship's log to the computer, we'll publish one more installment of this blog with various statistics for those who are interested.

Saturday, May 03, 2008

Running up the Coast Toward the Chesapeake

The next part of the trip north has been fun, but fairly steady running with few breaks. We detoured a few miles up the Medway River in Georgia to the docks at Sunbury Crab Co. and had a marvelous meal at the popular rustic restaurant at the head of the dock.We stayed at Isle of Hope Marina for a night and got caught up with laundry, groceries, and fellow Camano owners Faith and John aboard "The Chaser" who we had met a year ago in Key West. They treated us to delightful dinner ashore. While we were there, a huge long dredge setup came around the hairpin turn, heading south. It had a major tugboat and 5 other pushboats keeping the inter-connected parade of barges, pipes, pumps, and dredges in order as it went by.We went by the famous St. Bonaventure Cemetery, outside Savannah.
Howard and Susie had sold brother Jock their old Cape Dory Motorsailor and were hopscotching with us for a few days aboard their Grand Banks "Spartina" on their way home to New England from the Bahamas. This time, they got ahead and stayed there.
There are a few tour boats going up and down the ICW and a number of classy ferries which serve some of the exclusive island resorts.
We went past Charleston without stopping this time.
And got a bit closer to Fort Sumpter than before, particularly with the 12x zoom lense.The route takes us through a number of sounds and rivers which are fairly shallow, but build a nasty chop when the wind pipes up. These little guys had all they could handle as we went by.
In the Myrtle Beach, North Carolina section of "The Ditch" there seem to be more golf courses than people. One of them has an aerial tramway across the canal from the parking lot to the links on the other side.None of them seemed particularly crowded and everyone drives a cart. At times, it appears that they are having more fun "dirt tracking" on the golf carts than whacking on a little ball with a big stick.
An interesting thing about the ICW is that it goes from ostentatious glitz to real back country in almost an instant. This is Bucksport Marina and Restaurant, famous for its sausage.We stayed at the Osprey Marina for the first time. Low prices and quiet in the middle of the cypress swamps. Good breakfast and lunch at the little restaurant too.
We thought we might have taken a wrong turn when we saw this little cottage standing about three feet above the high water line.

Which was confirmed when we saw the wildlife on this front lawn.
We saw "Freddie Freddie" again, anchored in Calabash Creek (the state line between the two Carolinas), but didn't find anyone aboard. Sometimes, you lose track of where you are in relation to the "real" world.

A parable (?)
The Admiral, "Your way of decanting the old engine oil after we do the oil change is stupid and messy! I've got a better idea."



The Captain (in the interest of encouraging creativity and promoting self-esteem aboard the vessel), "Absolutely dear, go right ahead and try it!" [A variation on "Yes, Dear", the universal answer which is posted on the bulkhead.]


Now, back to our story.
We ran down the ditch, anchoring off most nights.
Including a night near North Topsail, NC where we'll be for a family reunion in July (by car).
We took a day off in Oriental, NC at one of our favorite marinas for showers, laundry, breakfast ashore and R&R.
The unmarked channel into the anchorage at Catfish Point off the Alligator River is interesting, going between two groves of dead trees.
The National Weather Service (aka: NOAA) predicted winds of 10-15 knots for Albemarle Sound, but they were gusting to at least 30 when we got there. Spray was coming over the top of the flybridge, so we couldn't get any pictures. The boat handles well in these conditions when she is run "with authority" so the skipper was busy with one hand on the throttle, one hand on the trim tabs, and the other (?????) on the wheel. By the time we turned toward Elizabeth City, we had some protection from the seas, but it was still breezy. We would certainly like to avoid these conditions when we can, but we're happy to know that the boat handles them with great aplomb.
We decided to bypass Elizabeth City and get a start through the Dismal Swamp. We managed to get through the last opening of the South Mills Lock and stayed overnight at the North Carolina Welcome Center, rafted to a couple of other boats.
Nice weather and an early start the next morning took us through the rest of the canal. We found a turtle catching the rays.
And a goose getting a running start for a take-off.
If this is Friday, it must be Virginia!
We went past the "Savannah" docked at Norfolk. She was launched in 1962 as the first nuclear powered merchant ship (she also had 30 staterooms) and is in Norfolk for final decommissioning of the nuclear systems as well as repairs and refurbishing as some kind of museum. (She is designated as a National Historic Landmark.) She's a really sleek looking craft and BIG (596 feet long)!
We chugged through all of the tempting spots in Norfolk and ran up the Hampton River to anchor above the bridge. We've never been ashore here before, so we'll give it a try tomorrow. It's time for a lay day anyway. Then on to Chesapeake Bay.