The Saga of Sesame: Final Circuit: Hopetown, Little Harbour, and Back to The Whale

Sunday, March 21, 2010

Final Circuit: Hopetown, Little Harbour, and Back to The Whale

HOPETOWN

Back to Hopetown for Heritage Day, complete with a little speech and presentation by Vernon Malone and all kinds of local food including stuffed lobster (crayfish) tails.

There are at least 4 variations of the exciting crab races. In all of them, you pick your number and pay $2. If you have the winning hermit crab, you get $1 for each contestant in the particular race. The profit goes to charity.

Outside the harbor, they had Bahama dinghy races. It was early in their season so there were only 3 boats out. One was sailed by a friend from Connecticut who "winters" in Florida and Hopetown. Another was sailed by a guy with his golden retriever.

They also raced Sunfish sailboats.

LITTLE HARBOUR

Little Harbour

Little Harbour is one of the most relaxing spots in Abaco with a well-protected anchorage. We love the gallery and Pete's Pub. The only real problem there is that you cannot get provisions for the boat.

We met some friends there who had anchored a couple of miles away and came in by dinghy for some beach combing, a couple of drinks, and lunch.

Pete was back at work in the workshop and forge after some shoulder surgery in the States. He claimed that this work was for therapy.

There were some paintings in the gallery which were pretty impressive including this one of a large Bahama dinghy.

Another sculpture probably by Randolph. I do not know the title.

TILLOO CAY

On the way back north, we anchored off "Farside" on Tilloo Cay. It has 5 bedrooms, 6 baths, a hanger for your plane, and a dock for a 80' vessel. If you would like to buy it, we'd be happy to pay to rent part of the dock from you for the winters to help you defray your expenses.

Farside: $4,850,000

The sunrises come free with the house.

Tilloo Sunrise

MARSH HARBOUR

We went back to Marsh Harbour briefly for fuel, water, and a few groceries before heading "Through the Whale" to get back to northern Abaco so that we could stage to go back to the U.S. We took a long walk and saw "The Castle" which I think was built by a rich American with delusions of grandeur. It does have a pretty impressive view I would think!

LEISURE LEE

On our way back through The Whale, we decided to detour past "The Nutty Mermaid" at Leisure Lee where we had spent a week with The Admiral's sister, her husband, and her mother-in-law. A great spot and looks terrific from Abaco Sound too!

TREASURE CAY

We also went by the marina in Treasure Cay and through the mooring field and anchorage.

And onward past Don't Rock and the Don't Rock Passage inside Whale Cay toward Green Turtle Cay.

The next episode will include the Skipper's snorkeling trip aboard Brendal's Dive Boat from White Sound in Green Turtle Cay. We hope that the following chapter will come from the U.S.A., the weather gods permitting. We plan a two day passage to West End, anchoring at Great Sale Cay (no civilization or communication) the first night. Hopefully we will spend only one night at West End ($$$$$) and transit the Gulf Stream and Florida Straits (60 miles) the next day to St. Lucy or Lake Worth, Florida.

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This Blog

The information in this column does not change. New entries will appear to the left.

We started this blog in August 2006 when we were getting ready for our first winter heading south in our new powerboat, named "Sesame". The newest entries are first and the oldest are last. General information is in this column.

Most of the photographs are high definition. You can click on any one of them to see the photograph full size. If you want to steal one, click on it. When you get the full-size one, right click and "Save as" whatever you want. I would only ask that you give proper credit if you use them for anything other that your personal delight and delectation.

Powerboating on the East Coast

We are Judy and Allen Ames from Old Saybrook, Connecticut. Our boats have all been called "Sesame" (Ameses spelled inside out?). The dinghy, of course, is named "Open".

After 60+ years of sailing, the last 25 aboard a Nonsuch 26 and a Nonsuch 30, we went to the "dark side" and bought a slightly used 28 foot trawler, called variously, a Camano Troll, a Camano 28, or a Camano 31 (see below). This blog starts with our first motor boat trip down the East Coast from Connecticut to Key West and back during the winter of 2006-2007. (We had done a similar trip on our Nonsuch 30 a couple of years before. That trip is pretty well documented in our WebShots albums -- http://community.webshots.com/user/allen_ames) It then picks up with our third trip which took us across the Gulf Stream to Abaco on New Year's Eve 2007.

Like most blogs, the most recent entry is on top and you have to scroll down to get previous entries. You can also click on a specific date at the bottom of this column.

We welcome comments or questions. Just hit the word "Comments" at the end of any entry or email us at: Sesame130@comcast.net. You can send the blog to anyone else by clicking on the envelope with an arrow at the end of each entry.

The Boat

The Camano Troll is a "semi-displacement" trawler, 28 feet long on deck and 31 feet overall if you measure the swim platform and anchor roller. She has a 200 horse Volvo turbo-diesel which can push her up to about 13 knots when we're in a hurry and don't care that we're getting less than a mile per gallon. Normally, we cruise at 7-8 knots which is far more relaxing and gets us close to four nautical miles per gallon. We love the 360-degree view from the main cabin and inside steering station and it's even nicer on the flybridge in good weather.

We have most of the amenities: Hot and cold running water, refrigeration and freezer, 3 burner propane stove with oven, shower and enclosed head, and plenty of room for two people. We have replaced the large dining table (which made it possible to convert the dinette into a double bunk) with a smaller one, but have a 5' x 7' pop-up tent and blow-up queen size mattress that fits perfectly on the flybridge for occasional guests (our penthouse!). The bridge also has plenty of room for a couple of lounge chairs.

We have three AGM batteries on the "house" side of our 12-volt system. To keep the small chest freezer, refrigerator, and various toys going, we usually run the engine for a couple of hours a day when we are at anchor or moored in order to keep the batteries charged We also have a 110 volt belt-driven generator which runs off the main engine to power the microwave, airconditioner (and reverse-cycle heater), etc. Smaller 110 appliances, a TV, computers, and rechargers run off a small inverter. A 7.5 amp solar panel helps keep the house batteries up in sunny weather giving a little more TV and freezer time before we have to start up the engine. Of course, all of the 110 system works when the boat is plugged into dock power too.

We communicate by Verizon cell phone and get our internet through a Verizon air card or WiFi wherever and whenever service is available. (Verizon is not our favorite vendor, but it has the best coverage all the way down the East Coast.) We have external marine antennas for both the air card and WiFi. Where we don't have cell service (Bahamas, some of Georgia, the Carolinas, and Maine) but can get WiFi, we use Skype.

The boat was built in British Columbia but the factory has recently been sold and they say they will begin building in Washington state. See the links below for more pictures and specs of the boat.

The "Saga"

Our title is a leftover from an old English teacher's fondness for alliteration rather than a true description of the contents. Actually, we plan very carefully to avoid having it become a saga, or even an adventure! We refuse to have a real schedule or dated itinerary for fear that we would be tempted to venture out in poor conditions. If we want to meet someone along the way, we give them the choice of when or where, not both. The only exceptions are when we are relatively certain that we can reach a destination easily and safely at least a week before a specific date. Even then, we make it clear that all "plans" are subject to change or cancellation.

Traditionally, there are two kinds of cruisers: those who are happy in slower boats (sailboats and slow trawlers) focus on the voyage, while those with fast boats are all about the destination. We definitely belong to the former group.

Our goal is to do virtually nothing, and do it well!

Or, to invoke the greatest all-time boating cliche, as Kenneth Graham's Rat says in The Wind in the Willows:
Believe me, . . . . there is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. Simply messing . . . . about in boats -- or with boats. . . . . In or out of 'em, it doesn't matter. Nothing seems really to matter, that's the charm of it. Whether you get away, or whether you don't; whether you arrive at your destination or whether you reach somewhere else, or whether you never get anywhere at all, you're always busy, and you never do anything in particular; and when you've done it there's always something else to do, and you can do it if you like, but you'd much better not.

The Saga of Sesame

Sunday, March 21, 2010

Final Circuit: Hopetown, Little Harbour, and Back to The Whale

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